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Los Angeles: A patchwork megalopolis defined by its unlikely cultural collisions; the city that raised and shaped Roy Choi, the boundary-breaking chef who decided to leave behind fine dining to feed the city he loved—and, with the creation of the Korean taco, reinvented street food along the way.
Abounding with both the food and the stories that gave rise to Choi's inspired cooking, L.A. Son takes us through the neighborhoods and streets most tourists never see, from the hidden casinos where gamblers slurp fragrant bowls of pho to Downtown's Jewelry District, where a ten-year-old Choi wolfed down Jewish deli classics between diamond deliveries; from the kitchen of his parents' Korean restaurant and his mother's pungent kimchi to the boulevards of East L.A. and the best taquerias in the country, to, at last, the curbside view from one of his emblematic Kogi taco trucks, where people from all walks of life line up for a revolutionary meal.
Filled with over 85 inspired recipes that meld the overlapping traditions and flavors of L.A.—including Korean fried chicken, tempura potato pancakes, homemade chorizo, and Kimchi and Pork Belly Stuffed Pupusas—L.A. Son embodies the sense of invention, resourcefulness, and hybrid attitude of the city from which it takes its name, as it tells the transporting, unlikely story of how a Korean American kid went from lowriding in the streets of L.A. to becoming an acclaimed chef.
- Sales Rank: #55256 in Books
- Brand: Choi, Roy/ Nguyen, Tien (CON)/ Phan, Natasha (CON)/ Fisher, Bobby (PHT)
- Published on: 2013-11-05
- Released on: 2013-11-05
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.13" h x 1.30" w x 7.38" l, 1.42 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 352 pages
Features
- Used Book in Good Condition
Amazon.com Review
Featured Recipes from L.A. Son Download the recipe for Abalone Porridge Download the recipe for Carne Asada Download the recipe for Kimchi Pupusa
Review
Street-wise, honest in its admission of trials and punctuated with vernacular swagger, Choi’s debut pays tribute to family and his enduring fascination with the melting pot of Los Angeles. (Kirkus Reviews)
“While [Jacques] Pepin’s autobiography was the epitome of the traditional chef’s life, it may be that Choi’s will be the same for the new generation … “L.A. Son,” co-written with Tien Nguyen and Natasha Phan, pops with Choi’s hip-hop verbal rhythms.” (Los Angeles Times)
‘With driving metaphors coming fast and furious throughout this memoir cum cookbook, there is no doubting and no pulling away from Choi’s gritty embrace of L.A.’s mean streets.” (Publishers Weekly (starred review))
“Choi is the rare chef whose life story--which includes working with chef Eric Ripert and a weeklong cocaine binge--is as compelling as his food.” (Food & Wine)
“At the moment, Roy Choi is one of the most prominent lenses the nation has into L.A.” (Los Angeles Times)
His beautiful book .... is two parts story (Choi’s coming up), one part recipe (his OMG crazy good creations, like ketchup fried rice). You may never cook from this book (though the recipes are eminently doable), but it won’t matter. It’s a fun flip even if all you do is drool.” (Associated Press)
“A a memoir-cookbook that moves like a novel.” (New York Times, cover of 'Dining' Section, in article about Roy's new restaurant)
“In its pages, and even more so in person, one finds in Choi a personality who is at once high-end and low-end, flawed and at the top of his game, relentless and chill, coarse and refined-and absolutely, unapologetically authentic.” (Ad Week)
About the Author
Chef Roy Choi showed talent as a teenager, attended the Culinary Institute of America, and made his name in restaurants. But it was selling Korean tacos out of a food truck in 2009 that put him on the food map. In a 2013 talk at Ren Redzepi's MAD Symposium, he challenged chefs to not just "cook for rich people" and to find ways that they could feed more than just the privileged.
Most helpful customer reviews
42 of 48 people found the following review helpful.
Buy for Biography, Not for Recipes
By A. Weitz
I'm lucky that I live in LA and can eat at a Roy Choi spot at least twice a month. My favorite is Chego but A-Frame and Sunny Spot are also great. (I gave up on trying to find the Kogi trucks and honestly, I lost patience with having to wait on those long food truck lines.) But my point is: I love Roy Choi's food. The Sour Cream Hen House is probably among my top 5 things to eat in all of LA.
That's part of why I was disappointed with this book. I was hoping for some recipes that resembled some of the amazing dishes I've tried at Choi's restaurants -- the pickles and dressing at A-Frame, the meatballs at Chego, the wings at Sunny Spot, and so on. Instead, the book contains recipes like Roy Choi's version of Scott Conant's spaghetti and tomato sauce (there's also a separate recipe for spaghetti with chili sauce.) I appreciate how he intersperses recipes while telling his life story but that's why I think this book works better as a biography first and the recipes as a bonus. The recipes are in the book for nostalgia and sentimental value -- not because they're unique or groundbreaking. This is the bummer.
The other thing is, I've had this book for a couple of weeks and I've tried several of the recipes with varying results. One of the things I like about Roy Choi, besides how his food tastes, is his philosophy and his "keeping it real" roots. I'm glad the cookbook is riddled with f-bombs and real, raw emotion. It makes for a fascinating read. My only problem is with the recipes. They're written as if Roy Choi was standing next to you, telling you how to do it, which is cool. Except -- I always seem to have a question about the recipe. It almost seems like nobody tested or proofread the recipes. A perfect example of this is how the $4 Spaghetti recipe differs in the Food & Wine recipe version from the book version. It's really different -- from cooking times to the amount of olive oil to use and so on. The Food & Wine version is more succinct and easier to do. But it also answers questions like, "What the hell do I do with the mushrooms now?" The book never tells you that you're making a mushroom stock and should discard them. This is a common thread through the book. (And the truth is, the $4 pasta isn't so great after the 4 hours of cooking that goes into it.)
So, my main knock is that there don't seem to be any real, signature Roy Choi dishes here from any of his restaurants -- and instead you get recipes for a lot of humdrum dishes that don't really have that Roy Choi flavor he's known for (e.g., there's a recipe for baked sliced potatoes with butter -- this is where his nostalgia overtakes reader expectations.) My other knock is that the recipes are not really easy to follow -- or they presume a lot of the reader. I'm not a chef -- I'm just a fan of Roy who likes to cook.
That said, Roy's personal story is inspiring and he seems like a cool, genuine person. He's had a huge impact on cuisine in LA and beyond and for that alone, this book is worth reading. But don't buy it expecting the magician to reveal any of his well-known tricks.
32 of 40 people found the following review helpful.
Overhyped.
By FoolsGold
This part autobiography, part cookbook is a bit over hyped. The man, the myth (ok maybe not myth) Mr. Roy Choi, not to be confused with all the other Roy Choi's you might know. I had high expectations for this book and felt compelled to give it at least four stars, but yet I'm giving it 3 stars. I love some of his food (Kogi), repulsed by some of his food (Chego), and have a similar but much less exciting background as him (minority growing up in a mostly white LA suburb having somewhat of an identity crisis). The hardcover book itself is printed on some high quality thick paper and I do admire the artistic creative photos contained through out the book. His autobiography can be slow and a snoozer at times, but does a good job explaining why his cooking today is the way it is. My problem with the book are the recipes. Some recipes are hits, most are mediocre and are not worth spending half a day in the kitchen. Some recipes are down right insulting: Roasted Sweet Potatoes (potatoes, salt, roasted at 350...can we say "filler material"?) I'm probably one of the few customers who bought the book, who has tried to actually make some of the recipes. Here's some tidbits and my take on the recipes:
- You will need access to a Latino supermarket and a Korean and/or Thai supermarket to make most of the recipes. This should come as no surprise given Choi's background and influences. If you don't have easy access to these markets, I wouldn't waste your time. Ordering ingredients online won't cut it.
- Be prepared to burn a lot of time in the kitchen literally (see below)
- You need a blender/food processor to make a lot of these marinades and sauces along with knives, pots, pans etc.
- If you are diabetic/overweight/health conscious do not attempt at home.
Recipes I've tried:
"$4 Spaghetti that tastes almost as good as $24 spaghetti" - Should be titled "$4 spaghetti that taste just like $4 spaghetti". Complete waste of time. I get the lesson Choi is trying to teach. You make a mushroom stock and garlic confit to liven up a cheap lowly can of Hunt's tomatoes. But it takes 5 hours to make this (oh yes I did!) and it doesn't taste any better than heating up a a $1.79 jar of Trader Joe's marinara sauce.
Kalbi Plate - This was delicious but no different from every other Korean person's Kalbi recipe.
Pork Fried Rice - Well s***, I marinaded the pork belly and over baked it to the T except the book didn't mention that the pork belly needs to be in one big slab, not cut up in thick slices like you buy at the Korean market. Hello petrified wood pork belly!
Carne Asada - One of the better recipes I've tried in the book. Good to put in my wannabe Kogi quesadilla (see below).
Salsa Verde - Not like addictive green stuff found in the plastic buckets in front of your local taco truck. This one is a bit more creamy and more citrusy. Next time I'd only put in a quarter of an avocado, not a half and maybe a little less cilantro.
Perfect Instant Ramen - Sadly and ironically the best recipe I've tried in the book so far. Melted American cheese and butter mimic the milky broth in Hakata tonkatsu broth. I add a couple of sheets of nori in mine for an extra oomph of umami.
Although the recipes I've tried so far in the book have been very lackluster, using my own ingenuity and ripping-off skills, I managed to make a wannabe version of a Kogi bbq dish. Try this and get back to me:
"Kogi Burrito, But Not Really" - Carne Asada recipe from the book (or go buy the 1/2 off quick sale bulgogi at the Galleria market after 8pm), shredded jack cheese, shredded mild cheddar cheese, caramelized kimchi (fry it in butter), scrambled egg, caramelized onions (optional), cilantro (optional) sesame seeds, sesame seed oil. Dump all that in a 12 inch heated tortilla experimenting with different ratios of ingredients to your liking. Can also make it into a quesadilla. If you actually made the Salsa Verde in the book, drench your burrito/quesadilla in it. F-ing delicious.
Who'd ever thought the best recipe I learned wasn't even in the book?
6 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Great read
By chefandm32
I am a native Angelino and Chef displaced in New England. that said Roy made my heart flutter with his thoughts, realities and experiences that only happen in L.A.. This is more of a memoir than a cook book . A good read but the recipes might be tough if you havent eaten much street food. I read it all in one day and was surprised that there was such a small nod to his classical training, I have eaten his food. He is very talented no question. These recipes are the tacos, dirty dogs and messed up hybrids of food that many of us grew up on , and that is awesome! I would kill for some Korean BBQ off of Olympic Blvd but in Ma that aint happenin. Roy can guide you to some good Korean soul food and a good feel for the food of L.A..I would recommend this to L.A. expats as you will smile every 3 minutes of reading. As well as those who want to experience that small but important region of the country. FYI if you are offended by expletives especially the F word this is not for you. No matter where you are find a moment of sun make a pork belly taco and smile cause your doin it Cali style.
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