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Hooked: Pirates, Poaching, and the Perfect Fish, by G. Bruce Knecht
Download PDF Hooked: Pirates, Poaching, and the Perfect Fish, by G. Bruce Knecht
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This modern pirate yarn has all the makings of a great true adventure tale and is also an exploration of the ways our culinary tastes have all manner of unintended consequences for the world around us.
Hooked is a story about the poaching of the Patagonian toothfish (known to gourmands as Chilean Sea Bass) and is built around the pursuit of the illegal fishing vessel Viarsa by an Australian patrol boat, Southern Supporter, in one of the longest pursuits in maritime history.
Author G. Bruce Knecht chronicles how an obscure fish merchant in California "discovered" and renamed the fish, kicking off a worldwide craze for a fish no one had ever heard of - and everyone had to have. And with demand exploding, priates were only too happy to satisfy our taste for Chilean Sea Bass.
Knecht - whose previous book The Proving Ground was hailed by Walter Cronkite as "a sailing masterpiece...a tale more thrilling than fiction"―captivates readers by deftly shifting among the story's nail-biting elements: The perilous chase at sea through frenzied winds, punishing waves, and an obstacle course of icebergs; the high-stakes environmental battle and courtroom drama; and the competitive battle among the world's restaurants to serve the perfect, flaky, white-fleshed fish.
From the world's most treacherous waters to its most fabulous kitchens, Hooked is at once a thrilling tale and a revelatory popular history that will appeal to a diverse group of readers. Think Kitchen Confidential meets The Hungry Ocean.
- Sales Rank: #419157 in Books
- Brand: Brand: Rodale Books
- Published on: 2006-05-02
- Released on: 2006-05-02
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.25" h x 1.00" w x 6.25" l,
- Binding: Hardcover
- 328 pages
Features
From Publishers Weekly
Starred Review. The Patagonian toothfish—which can live up to 50 years and grow to six feet long—is an ugly creature considered too bland for eating by most South Americans. Its high fat content, codlike texture and lack of a fishy taste convinced a Los Angeles fish merchant who found the toothfish in Chile in 1977 that, given an exotic new name, it would do quite well in America. By 1998, "Chilean sea bass" had become the hottest restaurant craze: "[e]veryone had to have it." Knecht (The Proving Ground) weaves a parallel plot, which takes place in the South Indian Ocean in 2003, where an Australian patrol boat is hunting down a pirate vessel for stealing toothfish. The chase takes them thousands of nautical miles away to dangerous Antarctic waters and involves South African mercenaries and a dramatic boarding in dangerous seas. Knecht's gripping book flips between the commercial history of the toothfish—just the latest of many culinary fads that end up threatening an ocean species—and the chase, which illuminates the practically lawless world of commercial fishing, where factory boats with vast dragnets can devastate a population in just a couple of years, a practice the author calls "the marine equivalent of strip mining." First serial in the Wall Street Journal. (May)
Copyright � Reed Business Information, a division of Reed Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
Review
“Hookedis a fish story, a global whodunit, a courtroom drama--and a critically important ecological message all rolled into one.”--Tom Brokaw
“It’s one of the best ones I’ve read in years” -Tom Brokaw
Today (NBC) 05/24/06
Review by John Balzar,LA Times
A high-seas adventure with enough action and suspense to have you holding your breath.
A mystery that untangles the roots of a culinary fad fitfully hatched in and marketed from Los Angeles.
A courtroom thriller.
Proof positive that an objective eye is the most persuasive of all.
Mr. G. Bruce Knecht, take a bow.
Not only is “Hooked: Pirates, Poaching and the Perfect Fish” a rollicking read, it is a relief. And a wonder. For wrapped up in these red-blooded storytelling ingredients is the account of another assault on our planet’s troubled environment. And let’s face it, conservation writing has become one of our dreariest forms: The sky is falling, oh dear … fill in the blanks.
In these taut pages, Knecht takes livelier aim at the plundering of a limited resource for the sake of growing appetites. He delivers us, straight ahead and close-in, to an epic sea chase across the fearsome Southern Ocean. In one boat, righteous men are out to get what they want, what they regard as theirs, in this seascape of ice and storm. In the other, righteous men are out to stop them in the name of the law.
The story about the demise of the Patagonian toothfish, an ugly, tasteless creature with an unappealing name, is not so heartening. But the fact that Knecht tells it with such crackling drive and with complete confidence in the good judgment of his readers is.
The Patagonian toothfish is large, dark-skinned and cod-like in appearance. The name comes from its undershot mouth and needle-sharp fangs. It dwells in deep, cold waters -- for purposes of Knecht’s story, in the waters of the far Southern Hemisphere. Back in the late 1970s, it was a trash fish caught only incidentally by the commercial fleet that worked out of Valpara�so, Chile. It was thought too oily to be desirable.
But a decline in the catch of other more salable fish, along with some desperate determination by global fish brokers who work the Chile-to-Los Angeles circuit, a dash of ingenuity by seafood marketers and a splash of savory miso glaze in a fancy New York restaurant, and voil�, you have the highly desirable, evermore expensive and, of course, deliciously trendy Chilean sea bass.
You can guess what this newfound glamour has meant for the toothfish. Late in the game, as usual, fishery experts have weighed in with the news that this long-lived, slow-growing animal cannot endure the strip-mining of modern commercial fishing. By now, though, the fish has become the rage, commanding exorbitant prices; for fisherman, this is irresistible. Although their reach and budgets are limited, governments have made efforts to “save” the toothfish, joined in the effort by environmental activists and, here and there, responsible chefs too.
But enough. I said that Knecht had confidence in his readers. This book contains no sermon. All the essential elements are there, yes. But if someone is going to take to the soapbox and wag a stern finger, it will have to be you.
Tearing through this page turner is enough to trigger a pinch-me sensation. Wait a minute, am I reading a book about exploitation of our fragile planet in which the writer isn’t bashing me over the head with the obvious? Am I learning about the sensibilities of those who fish where they please along with the struggles of those who try to stop them? Am I getting both a story and the story?
You are.
We can wish Knecht good fortune in the hope that others will follow his cue. True enough, not all conservation issues yield the plot and rugged characters of a Jack London high-seas adventure. And it’s plain that the most pressing conservation stories, like global warming, don’t arrive at easy answers.
But there is something to the notion of casting one’s net wider than the didactic, and Knecht proves it. Conservationists will be with him, and who knows who else he will reel in for the sake of an oh-my-goodness tale.
A reporter for the Wall Street Journal as well as an experienced sailor, Knecht’s last book was the harrowing adventure “The Proving Ground,“ the story of the tragic Sydney-to-Hobart yacht race in 1998, in which a surprise storm took out more than half the fleet and killed six mariners. His feel for the wild wonder of the sea goes without saying.
But what about the courtroom thriller part of this book?
We’ll leave that to the author and his compelling narrative. The outlines of the story have the Australian patrol boat Southern Supporter in territorial waters north of Antarctica, prime habitat for the shrinking population of Patagonian toothfish. The under-gunned patrol encounters a shadowy 175-foot, Uruguayan-flagged ship, the Viarsa-1. Fishing pirates? Probably.
Before the tale is over, these ships have traversed 4,000 miles of some of the most inhospitable and terrifying waters on the planet, and two years have lapsed. Australia, which is not alone among nations with an imperfect record of managing fisheries, has its laws tested by the tradition of lawlessness that has long ruled the high seas.
All the while, by the heavy ton, by the container load, by the merciless rule of supply and demand, Patagonian toothfish are drawn from the deep, grilled, poached, broiled and sauced in another maritime gold rush.
Then a jury speaks.
It gives away nothing to say that when you next find yourself at a restaurant looking at the seafood offerings, you’ll know what you should do.
John Balzar is a Times staff writer and the author of “Yukon Alone: The World’s Toughest Adventure Race.”
The New York Times - 6/15/06In 1977 Lee Lantz, a Los Angeles fish wholesaler, came across something new in the Chilean fishing port of Valparaiso. The enormous “fearsome- looking gray-black fish” was called “bacalao de profundidad,“ or “cod of the deep,“ by the local fisherman, and nobody wanted it. In “Hooked,“ G. Bruce Knecht, a writer for The Wall Street Journal, tells how the fish nobody wanted became the trendy Chilean sea bass, and how over the last 30 years it has been fished almost to the point of extinction. In chapters that move from places like the South Indian Ocean to Bridgehampton, N.Y., to Vancouver to Perth, Australia, Mr. Knecht tells of the rise and fall of a fish, as well as of a 4,000-mile chase to seize a pirate fishing boat.
About the Author
G. BRUCE KNECHT is a New York-based writer for The Wall Street Journal. His work has also been published in the Atlantic Monthly and the New York Times Magazine.
Most helpful customer reviews
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
You won't be disappointed, though you might not want to eat toothfish ...
By Cy
I couldn't put Hooked down. It's an exciting adventure, a history of fishing and the Patagonian Toothfish (Chilean Sea Bass) in particular, a chase scene reminiscent of Shackleton's crew, communication logistics on the oceans,international law enforcement, and restaurant practices. You won't be disappointed, though you might not want to eat toothfish afterward.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
What Are You Really Getting When You Order Fish??
By Frederick S. Goethel
The story in this book is multi-faceted, but all of the intertwined stories revolve around a deep sea monster known, in restaurants and fish stores, as "Chilean sea bass". The fish is, in reality, the Patagonian toothfish, which is a deep water, slow growing fish found in the southern oceans of the world. And in a little more than 2 decades, it has gone from being a species no one would eat to being one of the most expensive fish that can be ordered in any establishment.
The author weaves together the tale of an Australian fisheries enforcement vessel's attempt to stop a ship believe to have been fishing for toothfish illegally in Australian waters, the story of how the fish went from junk to gold in a short period of time and the problems of over fishing in our oceans. In addition, the author highlights what chefs are doing to aid in reducing the consumption of over fished species and what some countries are doing to stop poaching in waters around the world.
The book is extremely well written and the stories are really quite riveting. It is a book that is hard to put down and should be read by all who order or buy seafood. It will really make you think about what you are really getting before you order. And, that is a very important process that could help save the world's fisheries.
0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Hooked
By Christopher Morin
I had to read this book for my Marine Biodiversity class, but I would recommend it for anyone. We as a culture are desperately ignorant of the issues concerning seafood and the fishing industry, and it will really open your eyes to the ecological, cultural, legal, and human aspects of this system of overexploitation. As the book says, "we're fishing our way down the food web," and we need to start reconsidering the effects overfishing is having on many ecosystems around the ocean. I would call it a "docu-novel," as it presents in a story format the historic chase of an Australian fisheries enforcement boat and a vessel suspected of illegally fishing their waters, using personal accounts and legal records of the events, and all quotes were actually remembered, written, or recorded by one of the people or vessels involved. It is easy reading, and gives well-thought out scientific and cultural backgrond information along the way to make it understandable even for people who have no background in the subjects being addressed.
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